BUILD PLANS
Today I am so excited to finally share our DIY daybed build that we created for our oldest daughter's room makeover in our previous home. We wanted to create a bed that fit well with the overall design of her rustic bohemian room, but also was an easy build and all done on a small budget.
Since we already had a metal bed frame for her bed, we chose to cut down on costs by only creating a faux daybed frame around her actual bed. This may sound a little unconventional, but it turned out to be a great solution to cutting wood cost and utilizing what we already had, plus with a bed skirt you can't even tell that the bed is sitting on a separate frame.
Let's dive into the build and the materials that we used:
*This post was sponsored in collaboration with Milton & King Wallpaper - wallpaper material gifted.
One other unique aspect to this build was that we used wallpaper instead of wood. Yes, you heard that right, wallpaper. Let me explain; Originally I had the idea of cutting reclaimed wood pieces into a chevron or a herringbone pattern then attaching those pieces to the plywood backing and sides of the bed. After pricing out materials, it was going to be both costly and time consuming. Not to mention the weight that the bed would actually come out to be when finished. That's a whole lot of wood. Here's where the light bulb went off in my head... why not use wallpaper that looks like actual wood!
Wallpaper is not what it used to be, there are so many realistic looking patterns out there now and many of the styles are easy to work with and apply, even for beginners. Milton & King has a great selection! From real looking shiplap, to reclaimed wood to patterned tile.
For our project, I decided to go with the Rustic French Chevron.
For our project, I decided to go with the Rustic French Chevron.
While you may look at the price and question spending that amount on a simple diy project, let me break down why we went with this option over actual reclaimed wood. As stated above, I did my research on the cost of actual reclaimed wood. Let me tell you friends, it is not cheap. They make you pay for that rustic goodness! When working with reclaimed wood, you will need to over-buy to over compensate for any cuts that may go wrong, along with the fact that many bundles of reclaimed wood are not all of the same lengths, therefore there is bound to be a lot of wasted material. Secondly, all of those cuts take time... a lot of time. Piecing them together like a puzzle. Maybe you are someone that enjoys the challenge, and kudos to you! I on the other hand am what you call a "lazy builder". Give me the fastest, easiest way to complete a project!
This project is for the fellow lazy builder or maybe someone that is just diving into their first build and may not have all of the tools or experience to make all of those angled cuts, but loves the look.
This plan is just for the BACK and SIDES of the bed. Again, we assembled the 3 sides to fit around the existing twin metal frame and bed.
Wood & materials you will need:
2 - Sheets of sanded plywood, 4 feet x 8 feet
1 - 1x4 @ 6 feet long
3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
Tools you will need:
MITER SAW
CORDLESS NAIL GUN
SPRAY ADHESIVE
STAIN SEALER
1-1/4" KREG SCREWS
120 GRIT SANDPAPER
GLOVES
COTTON RAGS
PAINT BRUSH
After we had all of our main pieces cut to size, the first step was using our Kreg Jig to drill our pocket holes into the sanded plywood. *This is important to do before adding the wallpaper! Also, do not assemble any pieces together until you have wallpapered your plywood and have allowed it to dry overnight.
With any diy, there are always bound to be some trial and error mistakes involved, and with wallpapering raw wood, we just had to dive in and see what worked best. I started off by using regular wallpaper paste which was recommended to me by the Milton & King team. Unfortunately, because of the weight of the wallpaper (which is amazing quality I might add) and the fact that I was applying the paste to the absorbent wood, the paper wasn't sticking like it would to drywall. After brainstorming, my husband was the one to suggest a heavy duty spray adhesive. We tested it on a smaller leftover board first and it worked better than we had anticipated! It was a winner!
Follow the directions of the spray adhesive as stated on the packaging, and always remember to spray in a well ventilated area.
This is important:
You will want to ONLY apply wallpaper to the sides of the plywood that DO NOT have pocket holes on them FIRST. You will apply wallpaper to the other sides (with pocket holes) AFTER the legs are assembled to them.
Before spraying the adhesive on your plywood, cut all of your wallpaper roughly to the sizing of your plywood, leaving an extra inch or two hanging off of the edges that you will trim up later. The brand of adhesive that we used stated to spray 3 coats quickly, let stand for 1 min until tacky then apply paper. I highly suggest that you have 2 people when working on applying the paper. You will need to work quickly, and because you are papering a smaller surface than a full wall, the paper has a tendency to curl up and be difficult to lay flat without 2 sets of hands. Once your paper is placed down, smooth out with your hands, making sure to always work outwards all of the air bubbles and extra adhesive.
knife to trim up the extra wallpaper around the edges.
Next, you will attach the 2x4 legs to the sides of the bed using your Kreg bit and your 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Once both legs are attached, you can then wallpaper over the sides with the pocket holes in them.
First cut your wallpaper approximately to size again. Before beginning to use the spray adhesive, use a piece of cardboard, a scraper tool or tape the legs off to block the spray adhesive from getting onto the legs. You then can begin spraying and laying down your sheets of wallpaper and trim up the excess after it has had ample time to dry.
Once your side pieces are wallpapered on both sides, you can assemble each side to the back headboard, creating a 3 sided frame when complete.
First cut your wallpaper approximately to size again. Before beginning to use the spray adhesive, use a piece of cardboard, a scraper tool or tape the legs off to block the spray adhesive from getting onto the legs. You then can begin spraying and laying down your sheets of wallpaper and trim up the excess after it has had ample time to dry.
Once your side pieces are wallpapered on both sides, you can assemble each side to the back headboard, creating a 3 sided frame when complete.
Once your 3 sides are assembled, you are ready to slide your twin bed (on it's metal frame) into the 3 sided frame you just completed for an easy DIY (faux) daybed!
*This post is sponsored Kreg, all creative ideas and plans are my own.
Welcome back to those that are following our Christmas build series:
The 12 Projects Of Christmas - with KREG
And for those of you just joining in, you can find the first post of our series: HERE
(and be sure to follow along for more projects to come)
In the weeks ahead, we will be releasing 12 easy to follow plans for DIY home decor as well as gifts to build for others this holiday season. Our goal was to create a holiday series that is for the DIY enthusiast, weather you are a beginner builder or a master, these plans are for all skill levels and will walk you through how to use each tool.
This is the second project of 12, and today we will be sharing how to build this:
Christmas Tree Stand Box
LEVEL OF EXPERIENCE: Moderate Builder BUILD TIME: Approx. 2 hours
Here are the tools you will need before you get started
Tool List:
RYOBI CORDLESS 18 GAUGE BRAD NAILER
HOME RIGHT FINISH MAX PAINT SPRAYER
HOME RIGHT MEDIUM SPRAY SHELTER
HOME RIGHT FINISH MAX PAINT SPRAYER
HOME RIGHT MEDIUM SPRAY SHELTER
Optional:
Material List:
(4) 2" x 4" boards
(3) 1" x 2" trim boards
Sherwin Williams - White Batten Interior Paint (eggshell finish)
1-1/2" BRAD NAILS
2-1/2" KREG SCREWS
Instructions:
Step 1: Laying your 2" x 4" board flat on the 4" side, cut one end of your 2" x 4" using your miter saw set at a 45 degree angle bevel cut (as shown). After one end is cut, flip your board over to the reverse side and then from the longest point of that angle, measure down your board 23-1/4" and make a mark. You will then make another 45 degree cut. Repeat this process until you have 12 identical boards. (Angles should be angled in towards each other.)
(before angles are cut)
(set miter saw to cut a 45 degree by adjusting the bevel handle on the back of the saw)
(place the widest part of your 2x4 board on the saw table & cut 45 degree angle)
(after you have cut one angle, flip the board over and slide the board to your right. before cutting the next angle, your board should look like this facing downward.)
(from the longest point of your first angle cut, measure up your board to 23-1/4" and make a line)
(you will then line up your saw blade with that mark and make your cut)
Step 2: (Note: On two sides of your box, your horizontal trim will line up flush, the opposite sides, the horizontal and vertical trim will be overlapping the flush trim, making the horizontal trim slightly longer. Here, we explain how these cuts need to be made.)
For the overlapping (longer) horizontal sides: Laying your 1" x 2" board flat on the 2" side, cut one end of your 1" x 2" trim using your miter saw set at a 45 degree angle miter cut. After one end is cut, flip your board over and then from the longest point of that angle, measure down your board 24-3/4" and make a mark. You will then make another 45 degree cut. Repeat this process until you have 4 identical trim pieces.
For the flush (shorter) horizontal sides: Laying your 1" x 2" board flat on the 2" side, cut one end of your 1" x 2" trim using your miter saw set at a 45 degree angle miter cut. After one end is cut, flip your board over and then from the longest point of that angle, measure down your board 23-1/4" and make a mark. You will then make another 45 degree cut. Repeat this process until you have 4 identical trim pieces.
For the vertical sides: Laying your 1" x 2" board flat on the 2" side, cut one end of your 1" x 2" trim using your miter saw set at a 45 degree angle miter cut. After one end is cut, flip your board over and from the longest point of that angle, measure down your board 10-1/2" and make a mark. You will then make another 45 degree cut. Repeat this process until you have 8 identical trim pieces.
(you now will need to re-set your saw. bring the bevel back to 0 degrees in it's original placement and lock into place. then, set your miter saw to a 45 degree by moving the miter latch)
(lay the widest part of your 1x2 board on the saw table & cut a 45 degree angle)
(you will then flip your board over to the opposite side and slide it to the right.
then measure the length that you need and make a mark.)
(you will then line up your saw blade to intersect with the corner of the mark you made for your measurement.)
Step 3: Before drilling your pocket holes, begin by first setting your Kreg Jig K5 to 1-1/2" and drill bit to accommodate a 2-1/2" screw.
Step 4: Begin drilling your pocket holes into the top and bottom 2" x 4" boards of your sides only. Drill 3 holes evenly spaced, each one should be leading into the middle board once you place them together.
Step 5: Screw your boards together using your 2-1/2" Kreg screws.
Step 6: Once your sides are assembled, you are ready to attach them together. To do this, you could use pocket holes to attach them, but this time we opted to use our braid nailer with 1-1/2" brad nails, shooting the nails into each end where the angles meet.
Step 7: (1) After your sides are securely attached together, lay your box flat on one side and place (2) of the shorter horizontal trim pieces and (2) vertical trim pieces flush so they meet evenly with all sides of the sides of the box. Nail down using 1-1/2" brad nails and your brad nailer. Flip your box to the opposite parallel side and repeat this process. (2) Once flush sides are trimmed, flip the box to the adjoining side, this will be where you add the longer horizontal trim. Your (2) longer horizontal trim pieces and (2) vertical trim pieces should overlap the trim on the joining sides. Nail in securely with 1-1/2" brad nails and your brad nailer. Repeat this process on the opposite side.
Step 8: Your box should now securely be put together! The last step is optional but it sure makes hiding those cords a breeze... Lastly, we used a 1-3/4" HOLE DOZER to drill out a hole in the back center 2" x 4" board.
Step 9: Fill all gaps and nail holes with wood putty. Then sand to smooth one dry.
Step 10: Lastly, you are ready for paint, or stain. For this project we whipped out our HOME RIGHT FINISH MAX PAINT SPRAYER and HOME RIGHT MEDIUM SPRAY SHELTER.
Now you have a beautiful box to display your Christmas tree in! This box fits most standard tree stands, but measure yours first before starting on this project to be sure.
For the overlapping (longer) horizontal sides: Laying your 1" x 2" board flat on the 2" side, cut one end of your 1" x 2" trim using your miter saw set at a 45 degree angle miter cut. After one end is cut, flip your board over and then from the longest point of that angle, measure down your board 24-3/4" and make a mark. You will then make another 45 degree cut. Repeat this process until you have 4 identical trim pieces.
For the flush (shorter) horizontal sides: Laying your 1" x 2" board flat on the 2" side, cut one end of your 1" x 2" trim using your miter saw set at a 45 degree angle miter cut. After one end is cut, flip your board over and then from the longest point of that angle, measure down your board 23-1/4" and make a mark. You will then make another 45 degree cut. Repeat this process until you have 4 identical trim pieces.
For the vertical sides: Laying your 1" x 2" board flat on the 2" side, cut one end of your 1" x 2" trim using your miter saw set at a 45 degree angle miter cut. After one end is cut, flip your board over and from the longest point of that angle, measure down your board 10-1/2" and make a mark. You will then make another 45 degree cut. Repeat this process until you have 8 identical trim pieces.
(you now will need to re-set your saw. bring the bevel back to 0 degrees in it's original placement and lock into place. then, set your miter saw to a 45 degree by moving the miter latch)
(lay the widest part of your 1x2 board on the saw table & cut a 45 degree angle)
(you will then flip your board over to the opposite side and slide it to the right.
then measure the length that you need and make a mark.)
(you will then line up your saw blade to intersect with the corner of the mark you made for your measurement.)
Step 3: Before drilling your pocket holes, begin by first setting your Kreg Jig K5 to 1-1/2" and drill bit to accommodate a 2-1/2" screw.
Step 4: Begin drilling your pocket holes into the top and bottom 2" x 4" boards of your sides only. Drill 3 holes evenly spaced, each one should be leading into the middle board once you place them together.
Step 5: Screw your boards together using your 2-1/2" Kreg screws.
Step 6: Once your sides are assembled, you are ready to attach them together. To do this, you could use pocket holes to attach them, but this time we opted to use our braid nailer with 1-1/2" brad nails, shooting the nails into each end where the angles meet.
Step 7: (1) After your sides are securely attached together, lay your box flat on one side and place (2) of the shorter horizontal trim pieces and (2) vertical trim pieces flush so they meet evenly with all sides of the sides of the box. Nail down using 1-1/2" brad nails and your brad nailer. Flip your box to the opposite parallel side and repeat this process. (2) Once flush sides are trimmed, flip the box to the adjoining side, this will be where you add the longer horizontal trim. Your (2) longer horizontal trim pieces and (2) vertical trim pieces should overlap the trim on the joining sides. Nail in securely with 1-1/2" brad nails and your brad nailer. Repeat this process on the opposite side.
Step 8: Your box should now securely be put together! The last step is optional but it sure makes hiding those cords a breeze... Lastly, we used a 1-3/4" HOLE DOZER to drill out a hole in the back center 2" x 4" board.
Step 9: Fill all gaps and nail holes with wood putty. Then sand to smooth one dry.
Step 10: Lastly, you are ready for paint, or stain. For this project we whipped out our HOME RIGHT FINISH MAX PAINT SPRAYER and HOME RIGHT MEDIUM SPRAY SHELTER.
Now you have a beautiful box to display your Christmas tree in! This box fits most standard tree stands, but measure yours first before starting on this project to be sure.
Check out the first project in our series:
*This post is sponsored by Kreg, all creative ideas and plans are my own
I am so excited to announce the launch of our "12 Projects Of Christmas" series in collaboration with KREG. In the weeks ahead, we will be releasing 12 easy to follow plans for DIY home decor as well as gifts to build for others this holiday season. Our goal was to create a holiday series that is for the DIY enthusiast, weather you are a beginner builder or a master, these plans are for all skill levels and will walk you through how to use each tool.
Kicking off the series, our first project we are sharing how to build is this:
Shiplap Advent Calendar
LEVEL OF EXPERIENCE: Beginner BUILD TIME: 1-2 hours
(faster if you are familiar with using the KREG JIG R3)
Here are the tools you will need before you get started
Tool List:
Optional:
Material List:
(2) 1" x 6" x 8' common boards
(2) 1" x 2" trim
Instructions:
Step 1: Cut down your 6" x 8' pine boards down to 47-1/16" each using your miter saw.
This will leave you with 4 separate boards.
Step 2: Cut your 1" x 2" trim pieces, (2) of them being 48-9/16" long and (2) being 21-7/8" long.
Step 3: Using a tape measure, mark out on your 6" boards where to drill your pocket holes. We recommend one pocket hole every 12".
Step 4: Start drilling your pocket holes. You will do this by first adjusting the setting on your Kreg Jig. You can easily determine which setting you will need by using KREG'S SCREW SELECTOR WHEEL. For this project we have set it at 3/4". You will then set your drilling depth using the drill bit and stop collar. You will find the directions how to this in the owners manual inside of your KREG JIG R3. You will only drill pocket holes on one side of 3 boards.
Step 5: Once you have all of your pocket holes drilled, take a moment to quickly sand all of the front facing edges with an electric sander.
Step 6: Now that your boards are drilled and sanded, you will line up your (4) 6" boards evenly and clamp them together using a 36 INCH CLAMP. Now you are ready to begin screwing your boards together using KREG 1-1/4" ZINC COARSE THREAD POCKET HOLE SCREWS.
Step 7: After your boards are securely together, you are ready for paint! You can use any white paint for this, I chose to go with my go-to paint for every indoor home decor project - Annie Sloan chalk paint in Pure White. Two coats are all that were needed.
Step 8: Lastly, it's time for trim. Take your pre-cut trim pieces and stain them in your desired stain color first before attaching to the main boards. After they are dry, take your brad nailer loaded with 2" brad nails and nail in your trim.
Step 9: First off, give yourself a pat on the back, because your are almost at the finish line! The last step is to add the HOOKS to hang your daily advent cards/ bags. We alternated ours, having 7 hooks on one board, and 6 on the next, having 26 hooks in total. You may ask, why 26? Well, the perfectionist in me just wasn't okay with how an odd number looked spaced out, and secondly that 26th hook actually comes in handy! As you count down your days and complete your advent, you can stack up the past day's cards or bags on that extra hook. As far as how we spaced out the hooks, each one is approx placed 1" down from the top of the board and 6" apart from each other. To be completely honest, I laid them all out first and just eyeballed what looked best. If you are one that needs precise directions, start with your second row, measure 6" in from the trim and place your first hook. You screw these in by hand. You then can continue measuring 6" apart for each hook on that row, giving you a total of 6 hooks in all. Then head back up to your first row and place the hooks in the middle distance of what you did on the second row. Hopefully this is making sense...
Step 10: The very last step is to add the 20 LB. D RING HANGER to the back of your advent calendar, and you are finally finished!
For the advent days: Photographed here, I opted to use these CLOTH FAVOR BAGS from Amazon and hand letter the numbers by using a sharpie. My plan is to add a fun little surprise in them each day for my girls. Some days will be a small toy or piece of candy, others I have planned to add in a fun holiday activity we could do that day and even how we can give back to others. One of the most special ideas I have planned to incorproate into our advent this year, is having my husband, myself and some of our extended family members write notes to the girls of what they love most about them.
Optional Idea: If you are one for a simple and easy advent, Michaels this year has a ton of adorable numbered cards that are perfect for adding on these hooks, and taking it a step further, you can easily just write on the back of them.
I hope that you have enjoyed this first project, of 11 more to come in our "12 Projects Of Christmas" series to come! Stay tuned for more holiday home decor and easy DIY gifts! And if you are looking for great stocking stuffer ideas for the DIY lover in your life, check out:
Kreg's STOCKING STUFFER GIFT GUIDE.
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